the spezz.

You could be the most educated and wealthy individual, but if you have zero emotional intelligence, you are still a moron - A.L

What are you doing today to achieve your goals? - E.S

One of the more insightful interviews from this man. “Arrogance Kills” Henry Kravis

nickelsonwooster:

Dior.

10magazine:

RAF SIMONS’ HOUSE

So yes this is from last years Wall Street Journal, but we’ve just spent the morning Googling Raf and just happened to stumble upon this so we figured why not put it up. And he does have the most amazing home. And a lot Sterling Ruby on his walls. And on stands. Just casually scattered around in the same way you or I might scatter magazines. Or potpourri.

http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424053111903596904576517200284461270.html#articleTabs%3Darticle

by Natalie Dembinska

(Source: 10magazine)

downeastandout:

“What is it about the double-breasted coat that I love it so much? It is a ‘strong’ look. It is like having a little more power without being ridiculous. The story of the double-breasted coat is that it used to be exclusively for the ‘high’ types, for the president or the manager. But we modernised it and now you can even wear it with jeans. It looks good on everyone if fitted correctly. If you look at the most stylish men in history, even the shorter ones like the Duke of Windsor or Humphrey Bogart always wore double-breasted because they knew it was more powerful.
My suggestion is to wear the double-breasted jacket very tight. I often reinforce the buttons used to close the front flap of the jacket with another button on the inside for added security because I like the waist to be very, very tight. I think the secret to looking good in a double-breasted jacket is that it should never be perfect. It should have a few lines across the front where it creases. I never button the inner flap because I like it to be imperfect. I like to think of the double-breasted coat as almost like a sweater, which looks beautiful when it is worn casual and imperfectly. Fred Astaire never buttoned the inner flap and his coat always looked fantastic. This way, you can move much better.”
-Lino

downeastandout:

“What is it about the double-breasted coat that I love it so much? It is a ‘strong’ look. It is like having a little more power without being ridiculous. The story of the double-breasted coat is that it used to be exclusively for the ‘high’ types, for the president or the manager. But we modernised it and now you can even wear it with jeans. It looks good on everyone if fitted correctly. If you look at the most stylish men in history, even the shorter ones like the Duke of Windsor or Humphrey Bogart always wore double-breasted because they knew it was more powerful.

My suggestion is to wear the double-breasted jacket very tight. I often reinforce the buttons used to close the front flap of the jacket with another button on the inside for added security because I like the waist to be very, very tight. I think the secret to looking good in a double-breasted jacket is that it should never be perfect. It should have a few lines across the front where it creases. I never button the inner flap because I like it to be imperfect. I like to think of the double-breasted coat as almost like a sweater, which looks beautiful when it is worn casual and imperfectly. Fred Astaire never buttoned the inner flap and his coat always looked fantastic. This way, you can move much better.”

-Lino

(Source: downeastandout, via milanesegiangi)

putthison:

The High Collar

I’ve always liked slightly higher collars. Such collars are made with a taller collar band, longer collar points, and are designed to sit a bit higher on the neck. The result is a quasi-Edwardian look that I think has a bit more panache. This style was popular seven or ten years ago among certain style enthusiasts, but I think it has since lost its cache. In Rome and Naples, however, many well-dressed men seem to still wear them. 

To wear such collars, you need to consider a few things. First, though the collar will always peak out from your jacket a bit more than orthodoxy would advise, you need to make sure its relationship to your neck stays within some range. If the collar is too tall, it can quickly end up looking like a neck brace. As such, if you have a short neck, you should avoid these altogether. Second, I’ve found that the collar points have to be made just right. The points should be slightly longer in order to maintain a balance, and they should be constructed with a softer interfacing. This will allow the more prominent collar to look soft and casual, not stiff or domineering. 

You may also want to consider getting two-buttons on the band. This helps prevent a couple of things. First, because the collar band is quite tall, a single button can act like a hinge and allow the band to rotate, which would then create an awkward opening below the collar. Having a second button helps act as a lock to prevent that rotation. The other problem, which is almost always present on any collar, is that the left side can droop down a bit. This is because the left side of the band goes over the right when its buttoned, so it essentially holds the right side up. When you have only one button, centered from the top to bottom, the left side can fall, so you need a second button to keep things in place. 

Of course, it can be difficult to find this off-the-rack, and even custom makers will have to go through a few iterations before they get something that looks right on you. After all that time and effort, you may find that you don’t like high collars after all. If you do end up liking it, however, I think it can add a really nice detail to a tailored look. 

* Photos taken from Ethan Desu, MostExerent, and The Sartorialist

(via welldressedman)